Side note: I intentionally spelled selvedge two ways in this paragraph, as both are correct spellings, though selvage is the more commonly recognized one in the U.S. Once straight and cross grains are established, you can pull a thread along the straight grain as a reference for lining up your pattern pieces.
Whichever way stretches or gives more is your crosswise grain. 98 Warp + Weft JFK Skinny Jeans Dark Navy Coated Stretch Denim Size 2 26x28 NWT. Then stretch in the direction of the horizontal threads, and again in the direction of the vertical ones. Warp + Weft Jeans AMS Amsterdam Slim Fit Straight Leg Asphalt Wash Men's Size 35. Maybe even mark the two directions of the threads. So first look, with a magnifying glass if necessary, at the threads. But how do you determine the fabric grain if your fabric piece is missing selvage edges? You can test the stretch, remembering that fabric has more give on the cross grain. The easiest way is to look at the selvedges and then remember same direction as selvedge is straight grain, perpendicular is cross grain. However, the more fitted a garment is (think formal dresses or jeans) the more important the grainline becomes. The differences are usually very subtle, so this works well. I often cut pieces on the cross grain to save fabric or because of the way I want a directional print to run. But what if this isn’t on your pattern, or you drafted something yourself? Generally, in patterns for woven fabrics, you want the straight grain to run vertically down the body, so lay your pattern pieces that way. Sewing patterns usually have a long arrow as a marker for the grainline. What if my pattern doesn’t have the grainline marked? These are the differences in how fabric drapes based on whether the straight grain is running vertically, if the cross grain is running vertically, or if the true bias (which is 45 degrees from either the cross or lengthwise grain) is running vertically.
Here’s a picture that also illustrates what I showed on the dress form in the video.
#WARP AND WEFT JEANS HOW TO#
Grainline doesn’t work the same in knit fabrics because they are constructed differently, so that post talks about how to find the fabric grainline on stretch fabric. For more information about knit fabrics, see this post.
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